From Oenophile Tom Black
Summer Wine II
Spring has sprung. Fall has fell. Summer is here and it's hotter than — well, when it is this hot, what do you drink? There are certain wines that may be a little more appropriate for summer than others. Although I'll never turn down a 1961 Petrus on the warmest day. Just ask Keith Browning and Tom Milam. But that's another story and another subject. Here are some great wines to serve this summer. When I think about summer wines I think of that wine you start with and then move to the table with. Maybe it's the end of the second glass that gets to the table.
Summer wine is probably best served cool or cold and although this speaks to white wines there are some sparkling reds and rose's that fit the summertime bill.
Also, summer wines need plenty of acidity. It doesn't mean you have to sacrifice alcohol only make sure that there's plenty of balance if there is lots of alcohol. Usually you'd also say they should be young and crisp. Wines that call for chips and salsa or dips and Triscuits.
My ideal summer wine would be cool, crisp, full of energy with lots of personality. I wouldn't want big red wines with lots of oak or high alcohol. I'd rather have weak, lukewarm tea.
My first thoughts run to champagne, but not vintage and not the big, heavy ones. My first choice is a non-vintage Rose. In addition to champagne (made in Champagne), there are some great sparkling wines being made in California and your local retailer can find these for you. If you have seafood starters or any strong flavors, then these high acid sparkling wines are perfect. Serve them ice cold. You'll miss some of the nuances of the wine but it's summer and hopefully you've bought them on sale. Also, try the Australian sparkling Shiraz. Great ice cold served outside as a starter or with grilled meat. The Australians call these "spurgles". The raspberry flavors will knock you over and this can be a good barbecue wine. By the way, this is not Cold Duck.
My second thought goes to Viognier. Rich, apricot aromas, almonds, honey and all spice. Usually if it's French Viognier, you'll get some floral notes as well. American Viognier tends to be more about melons and peaches (stone fruits as the English say). This wine is great with fish. Of course it makes an excellent starter and will stand up to chicken as well. This wine typically has great acidity and a lingering finish. So much fun when it's hot with jumbo shrimp and cocktail sauce. Try it with crab dip too.
A third idea is Sauvignon Blanc. Wow, what a mouth waker-upper this can be! Wines made from this grape include Sancerre and Pouilly fume from France (the Loire Valley), White Bordeaux (usually blended with Semillon) and just plain Sauvignon Blanc from Australia, New Zealand, and America. These wines are mostly dry fresh and designed to be drunk early. The aromas include grass, gooseberries, green apples and honeysuckle. If you smell wax that's usually the Semillon grape blended in. This wine is great with citrus highlighted dishes like fish, scallops or clams. Good cold and crisp I like it with oysters (remember the R rule for oysters).
A final idea for summer wine is Riesling. The minute you hear Riesling you may think "sweet". Riesling can be dry or sweet. I am talking about bone dry, very cold in a beautiful, clear glass. This is a classic German grape, but it's used to make great wine all over the world. These wines can be cellared for a long time, but they are also great young. Don't let your bad experience with a sweet Riesling, like Liebfraumilch, prevent you from trying a nice, dry Riesling from Alsace or Germany.
This wine has apples, lemon and sometimes an oily, petroleum nose. The fruit smells carry through the palate. This is an excellent "breakfast wine" (doesn't everybody?). It's great with Gravad lax or sushi. It's also good with the quick Chinese takeout you brought home or the smoked trout you planned for an appetizer.
Those are my ideas for summer wine and I hope you enjoy them. A final thought from Benjamin Franklin, a wise fellow wine bibber, who said, "Wine is constant proof that God loves us and loves to see us happy."
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